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Welcome to the Southern Foodways Alliance -- an institute of the Center for the Study of Southern Culture with headquarters at the University of Mississippi in Oxford, Mississippi. The Southern Foodways Alliance documents and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the American South. We set a common table where black and white, rich and poor -- all who gather-- may consider our history and our future in a spirit of reconciliation. 2006 The Gulf South – Tracing the Arc of Eats from Texas to Florida 2005 The Sweet Life - Sugar and the South 2004 Southern Food in Black & White 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999 1998 2006 Florida's Forgotten Coast (Apalachicola FL) 2005 Sweet Home New Orleans (New Orleans LA) 2004 Alabama in Black and White (Birmingham AL) 2002 A Taste of Texas Barbecue 2001 A Taste of the Carolina Piedmont
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Lousiville: Blue Grass & Brown Whiskey July 11-13, 2008
Join the Southern Foodways Alliance as we travel to Louisville, Kentucky, home of the “most exciting two minutes in sports,” and the arguable birthplace of the old fashioned. We’ll play dainty, an only-in-Louisville game, in the streets of the city’s Schnitzelburg neighborhood. We’ll gather in the Rathskeller, beneath a tooled leather ceiling, to toast the work of Minnie Fox and the African American cooks she honored in the Blue Grass Cookbook. We’ll taste Benedictine spread and Henry Bain sauce. We’ll sip brown whiskey from the state’s best distillers and red wine from grapes raised by a onetime tobacco farmer. We will dine on fried catfish at the All Wool and a Yard Wide Democratic Club. And farm-fresh fare at Lilly’s. We’ll sample bourbon-marinated smoked fish. And bourbon The region’s best scholars will show us the way, providing context and amplification. Smart talking and great eating (and drinking), that’s what we promise. Thursday Jerry Slater of the Oakroom in the Seelbach Hotel will offer a welcome toast of their trademark Seelbach cocktail, girded with Kentucky’s finest, enlivened by Biltmore Estate’s blanc de blanc sparkling wine. Upon adjournment, dinner is on your own. You’ll make your own reservations but we’ll show the way, supplying you with a roster of hand-selected Louisville restaurants, who promise to roll out the bluegrass carpet. Friday Begin the day with The Great Debate: Is Kentucky Southern? James C. Klotter, commonwealth historian and professor at Georgetown College, leads the discussion. Then we spread out across the city to experience iconic Louisville foodways. Muth’s Candies, Bourbon Barrel Foods, Shuckman’s Smoked Fish, Spoonbread School and Bourbon Academy await the curious. Lunch comes late today but good things come to those who wait. Chefs Todd Richards and Dwayne Nutter of the Oak Room welcome you to the Seelbach’s Rathskeller for an homage to the cooks profiled in at the Blue Grass Cook Book, originally compiled by Minnie Fox and published in 1904. That evening, we’ll gather at the All Wool and a Yard Wide Democratic Club for a catfish and oyster roll fry, honoring Louisville oral history subjects, including revered bartenders recently interviewed by SFA oral historian Amy Evans. Jay Denham, the To work up an appetite, locals will teach us to play dainty, a Louisville stick game introduced by 19th century German immigrants. And we’ll mix and mingle with barroom regulars as we join the Schnitzelburg walk. Saturday We’ll start the day with pie from Lynn’s Paradise Café followed by a round robin of talks on iconic Louisville foods and drinks. Nancy Russman, a local chef and educator, will talk of Benedictine spread, that cucumber-y Louisville favorite, named for the late caterer Jennie Benedict. Greg Haner, proprietor of the 1884 vintage Mazzoni’s Café will introduce us to the lore (and technique) behind rolled oysters, a bivalve croquette favored in local barrooms. Jerry Slater, barman, writer, and raconteur, will hold forth on the purported Louisville origins of the old fashioned cocktail. Lunch at The Pendennis Club, Louisville’s grand old gentleman’s club, rounds out the morning. Sarah Fritschner, retired food editor of the Louisville Courier-Journal, moderates a panel on the small Kentucky farm. Joining her will be Ivor Chodkowski of Grasshoppers, a local food distribution company that bridges the gap between farmers and consumers, and Mary Berry-Smith, who, along with her husband Chuck Smith, operates Smith-Berry Winery in New Castle, Kentucky. Dinner, hosted by Kathy Cary at Lilly’s, her seminal Louisville restaurant, continues the farm-to-table theme. We begin with family style service of appetizers, created by Kathy in homage to Camille Glenn, the beloved Kentuckycook and author. A local gazpacho, chockfull of the season’s best vegetables, follows. And thena summer salad, topped with Shuckman’s trout. And maybe a lamb leg, maybe a pot roast. We close with cheeses from Kentuckiana favoritesCapriole, among others. With dinner we’ll drink Kentucky wines, including a Seyval Blanc and a Norton, both from Smith-Berry Winery. Before you hit the road or take to the sky, you’ll need a little something for breakfast. We have made special arrangements to serve Hot Browns at the English Grill in the Brown Hotel. Though the Mornay sauce-slathered bacon and turkey sandwich, introduced in the 1920s as a breakfast treat for late-night revelers, has long since been adopted by seemingly every restaurant in Kentucky, the Brown still serves the definitive version. Anson Mills of Charleston and Columbia, South Carolina, produces artisan mill goods from organic heirloom grains. In 2007, they signed on as sponsor of the Charleston Field Trip. And they are now underwriting every summer Field Trip. Funding for Louisville oral histories was generously provided by the Greater Louisville Convention & Visitors Bureau. Lodging is not included in Field Trip registration. After the SFA confirms your registration for the weekend, we will give you a pass code. You must have that code before calling one of the hotels. Cancellation and other policies vary. All lodging is within walking distance of downtown event sites. 21 C MUSEUM HOTEL, a 91-room boutique property showcasing contemporary art from living artists, will serve as our event headquarters. Onsite is a 9,000 square foot contemporary art museum. You’ll know you’ve found the building when you spy the four-foot polyethylene penguins perched on the Main Street facade. The SFA-only rate is $134 per night. (www.21chotel.com / 877-217-6400.) ADDITIONAL LODGING, also in downtown Louisville, is available at two grand old hotels, the Seelbach Hilton, open since 1905, priced at $119 per night (www.seelbachhilton.com/ 502-585-3200) and the Brown Hotel, open since 1923, priced at $129 per night (www.brownhotel.com / 502-324-1389.) Registration is $405 for non-members and $365 for members. Applications for registration will be accepted beginning May 25 and may be submitted by mail or fax only. Registrations will be confirmed by e-mail or fax, beginning June 5. Questions regarding registration should be directed to Melissa Hall, rahrahhall@earthlink.net. Secondary contact may be made by way of telephone at 662-915-5993.
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