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The Center's
second Southern Foodways Symposium, held October 29-31, assembled
cooks, chefs, food writers, and inquisitive eaters to explore "The
Creolization of Southern Cuisine" and to sample a variety of
foods from the South.
The symposium
centered around three days of talks, including Damon Lee Fowler's
discussion of English influences on Southern foods, John Martin
Taylor's look at cooking in the South Carolina Lowcountry, Kathy
Starr on foods of the Mississippi Delta, Psyche Williams on an African
American culinary icon, fried chicken, and Ronni Lundy on the foodways
of the Hillbilly diaspora.
Discussions
were complimented by enjoyment of Southern foods. Retired farmer
Ed Scott served fried catfish and hushpuppies, chef John Folse provided
a rich spread of traditional Louisiana foods, and chef John Currence
prepared pimento cheese stuffed celery ribs, deviled eggs, and other
delicacies for the closing dinner on the grounds, served as the
University gospel choir performed. Booksignings at Square Books
offered tastings of tamales on Friday and Lowcountry pilau on Saturday
before Vertamae Grosvenor, accompanied by musician Steve Cheseborough,
performed her work celebrating African American food in all its
varieties.
Joining the
Center for the Study of Southern Culture as sponsors of the event
were G. P. Putnam's Sons, publishers of A Gracious Plenty: Recipes
and Recollections from the American South; the American Center
for Wine, Food, and the Arts; the Georgia Pecan Commission; Hal
& Mal's Restaurant and Brewpub; the Southern Peanut Farmers Federation;
and Viking Range.

Pictured at
the 1999 Southern Foodways Symposium are, left to right, front row:
Leah Chase, proprietor of Dooky Chase Restaurant, New Orleans, Louisiana;
Jane Crump, of Viking Range in Greenwood, Mississippi, a sponsor
of the event; Nathalie Dupree, author, Social Circle, Georgia; Toni
Allegra, author and writing consultant, St. Helena, California;
Jessica Harris, from Brooklyn, New York, author and professor of
English at Queen College; Lolis Eric Elie, author and newspaper
columnist, New Orleans, Louisiana; second row: Joe Randall, chef,
Savannah, Georgia; Vertamae Grosvenor, National Public Radio personality,
composer of the folk opera NYAM; Terry Ford, newspaper publisher,
Ripley, Tennessee; John Egerton, author, Nashville, Tennessee; Charles
Reagan Wilson, director of the Center for the Study of Southern
Culture.
Photograph
by Joe Ellis
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