The Newsletter for the Southern Foodways Alliance

A Fabulous Field Trip to Asheville - and Another in the Works

  On the surface, the Southern Foodways Alliance may sound like nothing more than an opportunity to eat well (and we do eat well), but our organization has a more serious agenda. The South, perhaps more than any other region in the United States, has been much maligned, stereotyped as the birthplace of racists, rednecks and hillbillies. When SFA turns its attention to a given part of the South, or a specific food, or a distinct issue, the goal is to learn and enlighten, to clarify misconceptions and uncover truths. We do this through the magical power of dinnertime communion, under-standing that there’s not much that’s more effective at promoting mutual understanding than sharing a meal with someone.

So when the opportunity presented itself to host this year’s field trip to Appalachia, I was quick to offer Biltmore Estate, Asheville, and Western North Carolina for the event. I wanted our lively, informed and intelligent group of authors, chefs, restaurateurs, culinarians, historians, cookbook authors, academicians, and miscellaneous foodies to meet the Appalachia I love. Appalachia is alive and vibrant, embracing old and new, encouraging both the traditional and the innovative. We shared our foods, our songs and dance, and our agricultural traditions. The group visited farms in Madison County, Hickory Nut Gap in Fairview, and Sunburst Trout Farm, learning about orchards and sustainable agricultural and tobacco farms and Cherokee foods. We delved into the farming history of the Biltmore estate and saw the cattle, market garden and vineyard operations in full swing, and we debated the viability and future of winemaking in the South.

On Saturday night, many area restaurants came together to showcase their talents in an Appalachian version of an iron skillet cook-off at the Orange Peel. We visited the newly renovated Grove Arcade and listened to Asheville’s own David Holt sharing the sounds of mountain people and Eustace Conway gracing us with the wisdom of a true mountain man. Malaprop’s bookstore, Handmade in America, Tim O’Brien, Chimney Rock Park, Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture, Dixie Darling Cloggers, Carolina Organic Growers, Strictly Clean and Decent Bluegrass, Mountain City Roasters—they all joined in to share version of what makes our region special.

On Sunday morning, Early Girl Eatery fed us biscuits and tomato gravy while we listened to the rain fall at Warren Wilson College. Author Wilma Dykeman inspired us with her memories of home, reminding us all that each small effort we make towards remembering, towards understanding one another, and towards nurturing our curiosity to know more about the world makes us better people. It may have seemed like we’d gathered to eat, but our group’s contentment as we learned shape note singing with Laura Boosinger was more satisfaction of soul and mind than of stomach.
The event was a huge success and showcased our area in just the way I had hoped. I was extraordinarily proud of our community and our coming together around the table to share with others the nourishing nature of what makes Appalachia the best place on earth.

Next summer, our meeting in Birmingham, Alabama, will focus on race and foodways. It should be thought provoking and fascinating. In the past, when society has been foolish, we’ve divided ourselves over lunch counters and segregated eating establishments. Our meeting next summer will take a hard look at such shortcomings. It will also explore how food has bridged many a gap, brought many diverse groups together, been a vehicle for passing along culture and tradition. The history of place and tradition has a definite place at the supper table. It is my hope that the community involved in planning next summer’s field trip in Birmingham will experience the same teamwork, community pride, celebration of tradition and dedication to understanding that we experienced in Asheville.

Elizabeth Sims